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Here is a selection of them. Rua de São João da Praça is where the first king of Portugal, Dom Afonso Henriques, entered Lisbon through the Moorish defensive wall on 25 October 1147. The remains of a tower that was part of the Moorish defences can be found on Largo de São Rafael. Rua de São Pedro is Alfama's boisterous main shopping street and site of a fish market. On weekday mornings, it's a cacophony of shouting fishmongers, gossiping punters, chickens, dogs and children playing football. Two ravens faithfully escorted the saintly relics, which explains why many a Lisbon lamp-post bears the symbol of a sailing ship with a bird fore and aft.

The king had a close brush with death in an assassination attempt in 1758, after which Pombal inaugurated a reign of terror, with widespread repression. Tile panel at Miradouro de Santa Luzia, showing Lisbon's royal palace before the earthquake Tony Halliday The Peninsular War At the beginning of the 19th century, Napoleon managed to drag Portugal into the heat of Europe's conflicts. The situation became so perilous that the royal family fled to Brazil on board British ships. Taking no chances, they remained there until 1821, 10 years after the crisis was over.

At the western end is Belém and at the eastern extreme is the Parque das Nações, the site of Expo 98. A map shows that many of the top attractions in Lisbon are within walking distance of the river, but because of the hills and the way in which the sights are spread out, it isn't always very easy to go directly from one to the other. Padrão dos Descobrimentos Lydia Evans The Tagus The River Tagus (Tejo) is 940km (585 miles) long, rising in Spain (where it is known as the Rio Tajo), and passing through Toledo.

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